> I have been using a polycarb progressive from Sears for a year now.
> The main problem I encounter is a strain on my neck when working on
> the computer which is a major part of my day. I am always tilting my
> head back to get the screen into focus.
That's progressives. Lots of people keep a pair of $10 drugstore glasses by
the computer because they're easier, particularly if your screen is up high.
> 1) I have read here that polycarb is not a wise choice due to "optical
> clarity", what in the world does that mean in layman terms.
When you hear poly has the "worst optics possible" it means the poster has
some agenda. I've been prescribing and wearing polycarb for 20 years and I
don't know of any issues with "optical clarity." Poly is just as transparent
as CR39 or glass.
What's different is the way poly handles colors, but only in prescriptions
much stronger than yours.
> 2) Is there a brand of progressives that is better for the computer
> related tasks while still allowing the reading assistance for handheld
> books and papers? Is this what they call the "intermediate" range?
Yes, but I'll let someone else recommend specific brands and frames.
I've fixed this problem many times by making the top of the lenses clear at
6 feet, not 20. That way, you don't have to tilt much at all. I'd rather
have "work glasses" with a little blur far away than a lot of blur up close.
I kept my older glasses for driving at night.
-MT, OD
> Hi All,
>
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
> --
> Mike Petro
The problem with polycarb is that it has very high chromatic aberration. You
don't need a thin lens material like polycarb with such a weak Rx, and you
should probably get regular plastic lens material (aka hard resin or CR-39),
or a 1.54 index at the most. If you need safety glasses get Hoya Phoenix
(trivex material).
On option would be to go back to your OD and ask for an Rx that has the
upper portion of the lens for your computer distance (you need to measure
the distance beforehand) and the bottom part with the reading area. Then you
could just take off the glasses completely to drive or for distance vision.
Another option is to get computer glasses such as Zeiss Gradal RD, which
basically does the same as above but makes some assumptions about how strong
to make the lens power on top (for computer distance) instead of a precise
measurement. For example, they just subtract .50 from the reading power and
assume that is the power needed for computer distance on top. Like the
custom lenses I suggested, you do not drive with Gradal RD lenses.
There are plenty of sites that sell frames over the internet, but I don't
know how you would know if they fit you (but you could probably return them
if you don't mind paying the return shipping). Here is one site:
http://www.framesdirect.com/
You need to look at the width of the lens and the width of the bridge (in
mm). Then you will notice that most frames a width extention before the
temples, but the width may vary between models.
For lenses, I know that Wal-Mart will put lenses in your own frame, but they
may charge you about $10 extra if you don't use their frame. They may not
have Zeiss Gradal RD, but your OD could prescribe some custom lenses that
give you what you need.
If you want something a bit thinner and lighter than regular plastic,
Wal-Mart may have Sola Spectralite (1.54) lens material, which has very good
optics.
Mike Petro - 18 Oct 2006 01:34 GMT
I want to thank everybody who offered suggestions. Between the lot of
you I was given enough key words and concepts that, after spending
several days searching the net, I was able to find out way more
information about lenses than I ever really wanted to know. That's a
good thing though as I firmly believe it is my responsibility to
become at least a semi informed consumer. I now know just enough to be
dangerous but at least I understand enough basic concepts to ensure
that I get an appropriate value for my investment.
For that I thank all of you....,
--
Mike Petro
http://www.pu-erh.net
> Hi All,
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> the computer which is a major part of my day. I am always tilting my
> head back to get the screen into focus.
Solve this problem by moving your monitor down or yourself up (may need
foot rest). Or switch to simple, non progressive 1/2 eye readers for
the computer. Depending on the distance to your computer, ready made
+1.00 or +1.25 readers may work.
> 1) I have read here that polycarb is not a wise choice due to "optical
> clarity", what in the world does that mean in layman terms.
Polycarb has higher chromatic aberration than some other lenses. Some
people notice this, some don't. If your job requires safety glasses,
you have no choice.
> 2) Is there a brand of progressives that is better for the computer
> related tasks while still allowing the reading assistance for handheld
> books and papers? Is this what they call the "intermediate" range?
There are computer progressives which have the intermediate power in
the top and reading on the bottom, but you will not be able to see much
beyond 6ft with them.
> 3) What brands of frames (or stores) offer wider frames, say 5.75" or
> 6" from temple to temple.
>
> 4) And last, is there an online resource for the above as my small
> town has limited offerings? For example of the 4 stores in town, none
> of them offers more than 2 styles of frames that will actually fit me.
If you really have a difficult to fit head, try a different town. It
is important to be able to actually try frames on to see how they fit.
You can't do that on-line.
Dr Judy
Mark A - 15 Oct 2006 19:50 GMT
> Polycarb has higher chromatic aberration than some other lenses. Some
> people notice this, some don't. If your job requires safety glasses,
> you have no choice.
Trivex lenses have roughly the same impact resistance and tensile strength
as polycarb, but significantly less chromatic aberration. The only downside
is that they are 1.53 index (instead of 1.59 for polycarb), but this is not
an issue for a mild Rx. Trivex is sold as Hoya Phoenix or Younger Image
materials.
>Hi All,
>
>Recently I have begun to require glasses.
>Sphere Add PD
>+0.25 +2.00 73
>+0.50 +2.00
[snip]
>Thanks in advance for the above, or any other advice you can offer,
I want to thank everybody for their responses. I still have a couple
of questions though.
Do I need a different prescription for the Gradal RD? What about the
reading on the bottom and 36" on the top option, is this something I
will have to get another $100 exam for, I just had my exam 2 weeks
ago.
It seems like I need three ranges, one for close reading, one for
computer work which is about 36" from my eyes, and one for distance.
Does such a thing exist and how would I ask my OD to script it?
Should I decide what type of lens I will want BEFORE going in for my
exam so that I can communicate that to the Doc? I very clearly
communicated that I am an IT Manager who spends lots of time in front
of a computer and the Doctor never made any of the suggestions I am
seeing here, he just wrote me another script and made no lens type
recommendations at all beyond "progressive". Should I shop for another
Doc or is this typical?
I see a lot of discount frames out there, I really don't care if the
frame carries a designer name or not but I do have a wide head (my
wife would also say "big"). How do I tell a cheap "free second pair"
style frame from a decent quality one if it doesn't carry a designer
name? I have seen titanium frames for less than $100 including a
single vision Sola lens, is this realistic.
From shop to shop it is all but impossible to compare unless you are
comparing a specific designer name/model. I do see some shops offering
the exact same brand/model lenses for as much as 250% less than other
shops so I know there has to be a lot of margin. Ouch! How much markup
is typically on this stuff? It is also hard to trust what you are
being told by the shops as there seems to be plenty of kick-back
schemes like "http://www.visionadvantage.net/rewards.htm" which
motivate the vendors to push certain lines.
I see a lot of progressive mfgrs recommend not using single vision at
all once starting on progressives. What's the downside of wearing
regular progressives for misc wear and having a single vision pair
just for computer work? I already keep cheap reading glasses in all of
the bathrooms, for example, but wear progressives when doing misc
stuff around the house, is this hurting me?
Thanks again for all of your suggestions, it sure does seem like the
whole industry is designed to prevent informed comparison shopping.
Reminds me of shopping for a mattress.
--
Mike Petro
http://www.pu-erh.net
Mark A - 15 Oct 2006 19:47 GMT
>>Hi All,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Do I need a different prescription for the Gradal RD?
No, you do not need a different Rx for Gradal RD. They just add .50 to the
distance (which you would use for computer use) and design the lens is such
a way so there is much larger than normal transition area that can be used
for computer distance (at the expense of perepherial vision). Remember that
with Gradal RD (and other computer glasses) you have no true distance vision
and you cannot drive with them, and you probably need to take them off to
see someone clearly at 20 feet.
> What about the
> reading on the bottom and 36" on the top option, is this something I
> will have to get another $100 exam for, I just had my exam 2 weeks
> ago.
If you go with custom Rx instead of the Gradal RD, then you probably would
have to get a new exam. I don't know if 36" is the right computer viewing
distance for most people, so be sure to measure it first. In some cases, and
optician at an optical shop can figure out the difference in Rx needed and
call the OD for permission to change the Rx, but you would need a highly
qualified and highly experienced optician for that. A new Rx should not cost
$100 since you don't need new tests for glacoma, etc. But for this to be
successful, it helps to get a high quality progressive with a wide and deep
transition area.
> It seems like I need three ranges, one for close reading, one for
> computer work which is about 36" from my eyes, and one for distance.
> Does such a thing exist and how would I ask my OD to script it?
You can get trifocals, but not in a progressive.
> Should I decide what type of lens I will want BEFORE going in for my
> exam so that I can communicate that to the Doc? I very clearly
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> recommendations at all beyond "progressive". Should I shop for another
> Doc or is this typical?
Hard to say if it is typical. Keep in mind that some people are satisfied
with the transition area (between the far and the reading) of a regular
progressive lens for computer use. But you would need a high quality
progressive lens design for that, probably not available at Sears, which
sells low-end stuff.
The Zeiss Gradal RD is optimized for wider vision in the transistion area
for computer use, but maxes out at about 10-12 feet on the top portion of
the lens, and has poor perepherical vision (which is a necessary tradoff to
get a wide and deep transition area). They are not cheap either.
> I see a lot of discount frames out there, I really don't care if the
> frame carries a designer name or not but I do have a wide head (my
> wife would also say "big"). How do I tell a cheap "free second pair"
> style frame from a decent quality one if it doesn't carry a designer
> name? I have seen titanium frames for less than $100 including a
> single vision Sola lens, is this realistic.
Designer frames are not necessarily better in quality than others. Likewise
the type of material used is not the sole indicator of quality for a frame.
That being said, frames have a gigantic markup, so it might be possible to
find a bargin.
> From shop to shop it is all but impossible to compare unless you are
> comparing a specific designer name/model. I do see some shops offering
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> schemes like "http://www.visionadvantage.net/rewards.htm" which
> motivate the vendors to push certain lines.
The markup goes through several levels, from manufacturer, to
wholesaler/distributor, to retailer. The total markup is huge. But some of
that markup goes to quality control, warranties, and service. Frames are
often hand-made and subject to quality control issues (mostly cosmetic), and
they are delicate products, which makes warranty and service costs fairly
high.
> I see a lot of progressive mfgrs recommend not using single vision at
> all once starting on progressives. What's the downside of wearing
> regular progressives for misc wear and having a single vision pair
> just for computer work? I already keep cheap reading glasses in all of
> the bathrooms, for example, but wear progressives when doing misc
> stuff around the house, is this hurting me?
It takes time to adapt to the "swim effect" of progressives so that the
distortion is no longer objectionable, and eventually not even noticeable.
If you switch between SV and progressives, it will be much harder to adapt
to the progessives, and you are more likely to be dissatisfied with your
progressives.
> Thanks again for all of your suggestions, it sure does seem like the
> whole industry is designed to prevent informed comparison shopping.
> Reminds me of shopping for a mattress.
Exactly. But some retail chains like Wal-Mart will tell you exactly which
brand, model, and material of lens you are buying (if you ask). Others such
as Lenscrafters, Sears, etc will rebrand the lenses so even the sales people
usually don't know what they are.
> Mike Petro
> http://www.pu-erh.net
Robert Martellaro - 16 Oct 2006 23:17 GMT
>>Hi All,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>will have to get another $100 exam for, I just had my exam 2 weeks
>ago.
No. Just confirm the 36" measurement to the screen and make note of the position
of the bottom of the screen. The lens powers should be about Rt +1.00 Lt +1.25
with an add for reading of +1.25.
>It seems like I need three ranges, one for close reading, one for
>computer work which is about 36" from my eyes, and one for distance.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>recommendations at all beyond "progressive". Should I shop for another
>Doc or is this typical?
Shop for an experienced and older optician.
>I see a lot of discount frames out there, I really don't care if the
>frame carries a designer name or not but I do have a wide head (my
>wife would also say "big"). How do I tell a cheap "free second pair"
>style frame from a decent quality one if it doesn't carry a designer
>name? I have seen titanium frames for less than $100 including a
>single vision Sola lens, is this realistic.
Just ask for the best value for your needs. You'll have to judge the optician's
sincerity and honesty the best you can. Look for independent opticians who have
been in business at least five years. They wouldn't get that far if they were
dishonest or not looking out for their clients best interest.
>From shop to shop it is all but impossible to compare unless you are
>comparing a specific designer name/model. I do see some shops offering
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>regular progressives for misc wear and having a single vision pair
>just for computer work?
None, except the near vision (desktop, books, newspaper) will be blurry with SV
lenses.
>I already keep cheap reading glasses in all of
>the bathrooms, for example, but wear progressives when doing misc
>stuff around the house, is this hurting me?
Nope, but it doesn't matter how many you buy, they'll always be in the other
room when you need them.
>Thanks again for all of your suggestions, it sure does seem like the
>whole industry is designed to prevent informed comparison shopping.
>Reminds me of shopping for a mattress.
There are straight shooting docs and opticians out there, so when you find one
tell your friends and neighbors, and don't expect wholesale fees.
Hope this helps,
Robert Martellaro
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Optician/Owner
Roberts Optical
Wauwatosa Wi.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"An expert is a person who has made all the mistakes that can be made in a very narrow field."
- Niels Bohr