A few MonoDont questions

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StovePipe - 06 Dec 2005 06:06 GMT

Howdy all. Sorry if I'm ignoring some threads, but I'll be back soon.
For now, I finally got the MonoDont parts and I'm going to make a
denture tooth version to go into the upper right canine spot. I looked
at the PowerPoint step by step that the DAL people sent along, but
already there are problems:

1) How do you bend the component to fit a lateral on one side and a
premolar on the other?

2) They advocate Dentsply Utility Wax strips (small, white) to hold the
thing in place after cutting preps on the model.
If I only have Blue inlay casting wax, what is the diff? I'm going to
sandblast the tines once the tooth is filled in anyways.

3)They also advocate the UBAR metal bonding acrylic. I don't have that,
and woudl prefer not to spend more $$$ then I have to for stuff that
will sit on the shelf for ages. Can I use the good ol' Snap or Trim?

4)Pressure Pot: I don't have one... Can I stick the finished product in
hot water for awhile or what?

I looked over the older cases that Amatus had sent to EastFlex and
those will orient me somewhat as well . This brings me to the last
question:

5) Why do they (DAL) want you to submit your case to be 'certified' ?
I don't get that...

Thanks
See youse all later... ;-)
SP

Thanks for all advice.
Cheers
SP

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Amatus Cremona - 06 Dec 2005 12:52 GMT

> 1) How do you bend the component to fit a lateral on one side and a
> premolar on the other?

You bend the component "tail" on one side 90 degrees to fit the two
contours. It ends up looking twisted. I can send a picture if you need it.
I usually start by bending the two wide tabs that will fit inside the
denture tooth 90 degrees (towards the center of the tooth). I then twist
the side which will go into the pre-molar 90 degrees. Test it, back and
forth a few times to get the angles right. Make sure you start with a
component which is slightly larger than the space you are putting it into.
It needs 3 mm in each tooth and will shrink in total length once you bend
and twist it. The amount of metal making up the radius of the bend will
shorten the overall length of the component. It is much easier to cut a mm
off each end after bending, than go get a longer component and start over
after shrinkage has occured. (Shrinkage here is refering to the loss of
overall length not to any dimensional change in the metal). I can give you
the formula for calculating the exact amount of length shrinkage dependent
on the thickness of the metal and the radius of the bend. But, that would
really be OCD. Speaking of which I have not seen Monk on TV lately.

> 2) They advocate Dentsply Utility Wax strips (small, white) to hold the
> thing in place after cutting preps on the model.
> If I only have Blue inlay casting wax, what is the diff? I'm going to
> sandblast the tines once the tooth is filled in anyways.

I always suck down a 0.020 thick plastic template first. I trim the
template so that it will fit over as many teeth as possible. If there are
lots of missing teeth in the arch, it gets hard to put on and remove, due to
the undercut of the teeth next to each edentoulous space. ONce the template
will go and off well, I cut the preps through the template next. Take off
the template and make sure your preps are large enough, as the template
tends to make the tooth look bigger, and you end up with preps which are too
small at first. Once you are happy with the preps, put the tmeplate to one
side and have it disinfected and ready to use. Bend the component to fit.
You may need to make a slight "saddle" to the component to allow for some
occlusal height of plastic over it. Set the component into the preps, and
fill the preps with sticky wax. You can use the blue wax, but it may pull
out if you don't have undercut in the model preps. After the entire
monodont is done, use VERY hot water to melt off any residual wax. Boiling
water from a tea kettle works great. I have Instant Hot dispenser in the
sink.

> 3)They also advocate the UBAR metal bonding acrylic. I don't have that,
> and woudl prefer not to spend more $$$ then I have to for stuff that
> will sit on the shelf for ages. Can I use the good ol' Snap or Trim?

You can use the SNAP powder, but use denture repair monomer. Don't worry
about mixing ethyl and methyl methacrylates.

> 4)Pressure Pot: I don't have one... Can I stick the finished product in
> hot water for awhile or what?

If you ever do denture repairs and occassionaly make a monodont, you need a
pressure pot. I use a Lang Aquapres. It works very well. Don't buy the
metal one that looks like a commercial kitchen appliance. You will never
need that unless you work on dentures all day long.

> I looked over the older cases that Amatus had sent to EastFlex and
> those will orient me somewhat as well .

I have lots of pictures if you need some.

> 5) Why do they (DAL) want you to submit your case to be 'certified' ?
> I don't get that...

They want pictures to use for marketing.

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Amatus

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Stovepipe - 07 Dec 2005 05:36 GMT

> > 1) How do you bend the component to fit a lateral on one side and a
> > premolar on the other?
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> denture tooth 90 degrees (towards the center of the tooth). I then twist
> the side which will go into the pre-molar 90 degrees.

I understand. I'll use the one with the longest tines and the longest
*W* part that gets bent into the slit in the tooth. I'll use the ol'
Danville MicroEtcher Mark II-A fully autoclavable on the metal unit
before, and on the tines again after the boiling water.

> > 2) They advocate Dentsply Utility Wax strips (small, white) to hold the
> > thing in place after cutting preps on the model.
> > If I only have Blue inlay casting wax, what is the diff? I'm going to
> > sandblast the tines once the tooth is filled in anyways.
>
> I always suck down a 0.020 thick plastic template first.

'K, got this part OK.

>... put the tmeplate to one
> side and have it disinfected and ready to use.

'K... overnight in the local lab's porcelain oven should be OK... ;-)

>Bend the component to fit.
> You may need to make a slight "saddle" to the component to allow for some
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> water from a tea kettle works great. I have Instant Hot dispenser in the
> sink.

OK. Stick Wax it is... Saddle will be necessary here, and Hot H2O and
re-sandblasting should take care of any impurities on the tines.

> > 3)They also advocate the UBAR metal bonding acrylic. I don't have that,
> > and woudl prefer not to spend more $$$ then I have to for stuff that
> > will sit on the shelf for ages. Can I use the good ol' Snap or Trim?
>
> You can use the SNAP powder, but use denture repair monomer. Don't worry
> about mixing ethyl and methyl methacrylates.

Will have to order the denture repair monomer. I MAY just be able to get
a small UBAR kit for the same price, I'll find out.

> > 4)Pressure Pot: I don't have one... Can I stick the finished product in
> > hot water for awhile or what?
>
> If you ever do denture repairs and occassionaly make a monodont, you need a
> pressure pot. I use a Lang Aquapres. It works very well.

If that's the one you fill to brimming with hot H2O and then screw down
the top, which has a dial on it, that should be fine. Maybe eBay....

>Don't buy the
> metal one that looks like a commercial kitchen appliance. You will never
> need that unless you work on dentures all day long.

Plus, it needs an air hose attachment. We don't have that in the lab.
Not even at the sterilization center, for that matter: I run and *pwish*
Kavo lubricant into my turbines and then run back to the chair and blow
air. Then they get Stat-IMed. I do this myself, as the assistant doesn't
often have time.

> > I looked over the older cases that Amatus had sent to EastFlex and
> > those will orient me somewhat as well .
>
> I have lots of pictures if you need some.

Thanks, what you sent last year is a good starting point (lower lateral
or central) and the PowerPoint step-by-step isn't too bad. I'll let you
know and I'll put some of my own pics on the tinyPic site.

> > 5) Why do they (DAL) want you to submit your case to be 'certified' ?
> > I don't get that...
>
> They want pictures to use for marketing.

Oh, but of COURSE.... I should-a thunk it.

If anyone wants to see what is on the DAL cd, I can try uploading it to
a binary site, or make copies and mail them.

Thanks
SP

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Amatus Cremona - 07 Dec 2005 15:59 GMT

> Will have to order the denture repair monomer. I MAY just be able to get
> a small UBAR kit for the same price, I'll find out.

You want some around anyway for the occassional denture repair.

>> > 4)Pressure Pot: I don't have one... Can I stick the finished product in
>> > hot water for awhile or what?
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> If that's the one you fill to brimming with hot H2O and then screw down
> the top, which has a dial on it, that should be fine. Maybe eBay....

Yes. I fill mine with hot water from the Instant Hot Faucet. I highly
recomend you get one installed. They are dirt easy to put in. You just tie
it into the cold water line, hook up the three hoses, and plug it it.
(assuming you have a hole int he sink you can use. Then, you can make hot
tea and hot chocolate all day long.

>>Don't buy the
>> metal one that looks like a commercial kitchen appliance. You will never
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> air. Then they get Stat-IMed. I do this myself, as the assistant doesn't
> often have time.

Look into the lube free handpieces. You save neough labor to pay for them.

Amatus

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Stovepipe - 08 Dec 2005 13:07 GMT

> > Will have to order the denture repair monomer. I MAY just be able to get
> > a small UBAR kit for the same price, I'll find out.
>
> You want some around anyway for the occassional denture repair.

True...

> >> > 4)Pressure Pot: I don't have one... Can I stick the finished product in
> >> > hot water for awhile or what?
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> (assuming you have a hole int he sink you can use. Then, you can make hot
> tea and hot chocolate all day long.

'K... will see about that.... 'Tho neither myself nor my assistant need
hot chocolates all day long... Green tea would be good.... as long as we
got teeth bleaching every six months....

> >>Don't buy the
> >> metal one that looks like a commercial kitchen appliance. You will never
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Look into the lube free handpieces. You save neough labor to pay for them.

Yes, you had already mentioned that.

> Amatus

Thanks
SP
PS: Say hello to your sister.... ;-)

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Stovepipe - 07 Dec 2005 05:36 GMT

> I looked
> at the PowerPoint step by step that the DAL people sent along, but
> already there are problems:

One other question I forgot: what do you use as separator? They say not
to use anything oil based or Vaseline or stuff like that.

'Way back in school, we had a bottle of separator(Think it was Kerr),
but I don't remember what it was; only that it dried into a film that
was forever flaking off and so it was more in the way than anything
else.

Thanks again
SP

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Amatus Cremona - 07 Dec 2005 15:15 GMT

I use a denture separator. "Modern Foil" by Modern Materials. I dilute it
with water about 1 part foil to 10 parts water. I have also used the
separator included with tissue conditioner.

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>
>> I looked
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> Thanks again
> SP

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Stovepipe - 08 Dec 2005 04:58 GMT

> I use a denture separator. "Modern Foil" by Modern Materials. I dilute it
> with water about 1 part foil to 10 parts water. I have also used the
> separator included with tissue conditioner.

TruSoft is what we have, (or is it the GC stuff?). I'll look if there's
a separator in it.
Thanks again. I'll keep posting on how it goes.
SP

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