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Medical Forum / General / Dentistry / November 2005composites-which one do you use
Question for the experts on this board. Which brand of composite do you use??? Presently I am using Herculite for almost everything, but as the esthetic issues become more and more prevelent and the fact that I no longer do amalgams [for the JAN DREWS out there, it is not the mercury in a patient thing, it is the fact that in NYC Amalgam,mercury and xray waste is a pain in the a.s to deal with, I have digital and no amalgam in the office], I would like to use ONE material for most of my posterior and anterior restorations. Presently: Herculite, and a generic brand I picked up cheap, which I really am not thrilled with [its a hybrid that does not set as hard as I like.[bonding agent is the parkell brush N bond which I LOVE]. Question for the experts on this board. Which brand of composite do you use??? Presently I am using Herculite for almost everything, but as the esthetic issues become more and more prevelent and the fact that I no longer do amalgams [for the JAN DREWS out there, it is not the mercury in a patient thing, it is the fact that in NYC Amalgam,mercury and xray waste is a pain in the a.s to deal with, I have digital and no amalgam in the office], I would like to use ONE material for most of my posterior and anterior restorations. Presently: Herculite, and a generic brand I picked up cheap, which I really am not thrilled with [its a hybrid that does not set as hard as I like.[bonding agent is the parkell brush N bond which I LOVE]. Flap's Reply: Herculite is an excellent material. It is a hybrid so can be used in most instances with good wear properties. Filtek Supreme is a newer material and is also excellent. Here is a PDF link to Filtek Supreme: http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?ggggggQO&svgAKhguKhggHiV_SGGGGGF- Flap http://flapsblog.com "Flap" <fullosseousflap@gmail.com> wrote in message > Herculite is an excellent material. It is a hybrid so can be used in > most instances with good wear properties. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > http://flapsblog.com What is the difference between filtek supreme and the filtek 250? > > http://flapsblog.com > What is the difference between filtek supreme and the filtek 250? As I understand it, Supreme is a very densely packed nano particle hybrid (particle size is down under 0.4 microns). Z250 is more or less a standard zirconium hybrid. Cheers SP  SignatureTake out the TRASH to reply OK got one for you guys. What is the purpose of using very teeny tiny particles as opposed to huge particles? Joel >> > http://flapsblog.com >> What is the difference between filtek supreme and the filtek 250? [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >Cheers >SP > OK got one for you guys. What is the purpose of using very teeny tiny > particles as opposed to huge particles? Smaller holes when the particle falls out Signature/ Amatus / > OK got one for you guys. What is the purpose of using very teeny tiny > particles as opposed to huge particles? [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >>Cheers >>SP > > OK got one for you guys. What is the purpose of using very teeny tiny > > particles as opposed to huge particles? > > Smaller holes when the particle falls out But it's not JUST small particles. It's a HYBRID. They have boulders the size of meteors in there as well. Small particle size also increases polisability. Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeers SP SignatureTake out the TRASH to reply >> > OK got one for you guys. What is the purpose of using very teeny tiny >> > particles as opposed to huge particles? [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >Small particle size also increases polisability. Precisely. Small particles polish better ,,, and reflect light at a smaller wavelength than larger particles do ..... >Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeers >SP >OK got one for you guys. What is the purpose of using very teeny tiny >particles as opposed to huge particles? > >Joel More profit for the manufacturer ? -- W_B Take out the G'RBAGE wubbabubbazG@RBAGEyahoo.com > Question for the experts on this board. > Which brand of composite do you use??? I am not an expert, but I have been using Filtek Z250 in the posterior over 3M's flowable hybrid over 3M's SingleBond. In the anterior, I'm using Z250 with a layer of Filtek Supreme over it. Unlike many who have reviewed Supreme, I find it a real bitch to work with. I'd push it into a class 3 from the buccal and when I took the matrix off, it hadn't packed into the deeper part of the cavity at all. It sticks to the instruments as well. So, I keep it as a final coat over everything and polish it up with the thin plastic SofLex disks (3M), right down to the extra fine disk. It _does_ make a difference, IMO. .... now.... where's that commission I'm supposed to be getting from St. Paul? ;-) SP SignatureTake out the TRASH to reply >> Question for the experts on this board. >> Which brand of composite do you use??? [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >with. I'd push it into a class 3 from the buccal and when I took the >matrix off, it hadn't packed into the deeper part of the cavity at all. Celluloid strips interproximally, and wrap into the capity preparation. This makes for a nice, dense restoration. Smooth too, if you get the wrapping part just right! Nice materials recoomendations, by the way! >It sticks to the instruments as well. Handyman's tip (but not approved by the official technique manual): Dip the instrument in a little adhesive before "patting." Joel >So, I keep it as a final coat over >everything and polish it up with the thin plastic SofLex disks (3M), [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >;-) >SP > Celluloid strips interproximally, and wrap into the capity > preparation. This makes for a nice, dense restoration. Smooth too, if > you get the wrapping part just right! Agree about the wrapping; I hold it with my finger all the while. Butttttttt: I have gone back to metal: thinner, can be packed against when I'm lucky, and can be cleaned and re-sterilized, if they're not scrached up. I've even used pre-curved dead-soft (as per the posterior ring systems) for an especially bulbous tooth, as in the distal of a canine. > Nice materials recoomendations, by the way! Yes..... still waiting for my kickback from 3M though.... Cheers SP SignatureTake out the TRASH to reply >> Celluloid strips interproximally, and wrap into the capity >> preparation. This makes for a nice, dense restoration. Smooth too, if [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >I've even used pre-curved dead-soft (as per the posterior ring systems) >for an especially bulbous tooth, as in the distal of a canine. The celluloid are worth developing some experise with. You can see through them and cure through them. Plus they can pull tight against the edges of the preparation so flicking the excess with an excavator frequently does the finish part in 4 seconds. If not a little see-saw with an abrasive strip will do. If the contact is not negotiable, stick a metal matrix band in there and wait three minutes until the teeth get wedged apart ...... Joel >> Nice materials recoomendations, by the way! > >Yes..... still waiting for my kickback from 3M though.... > >Cheers >SP > >> Celluloid strips interproximally, and wrap into the capity > >> preparation. This makes for a nice, dense restoration. Smooth too, if [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > Joel Good advice. Thanks SP SignatureTake out the TRASH to reply > Handyman's tip (but not approved by the official technique manual): > Dip the instrument in a little adhesive before "patting." > > Joel Used to do that in school. Lately, they've been telling us NOT to do that as it thins out the stuff at the margins too much. So I've tried the ethyl alcohol, but lately, I've been using a bit of flowble composite. $$$, but it's more filled than the adhesive is, so it should be better. 3M's newer adhesive one bottle is supposedly nano-particle charged, so I'll give that a try when the SingleBond goes dry (or reaches three months on the tray, which is the limit of its shelflife, according to David Hornbrook). Heating the instrument in my hand also helps sometimes, but I still find packing Supereme into smaller Cl 3's to be a real chore. The advantage to using flowable as my separator is that I can express a little bit onto the left glove and it will stay usable as long as I need it, provided I take the unit light off of it. Another thing that is important, even with Supreme is rolling it between your fingers with some pressure to try and iron out the bubbles. I have yet to take the SofLex disks to ANY anterior restoration and not discover bubbles. Cheers SP SignatureTake out the TRASH to reply > I have > yet to take the SofLex disks to ANY anterior restoration and not > discover bubbles. Try changing the thickness of the final layer you put on. Build the entire restoration up, shy of the final 0.5-1.0 mm. Set it with the light, then push your final layer (and final color) onto this. Only push it, don't pull back without sliding towards the margin. You should get fewer bubbles. Signature/ Amatus / > >> Handyman's tip (but not approved by the official technique manual): [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > Cheers > SP > > I have > > yet to take the SofLex disks to ANY anterior restoration and not [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > push your final layer (and final color) onto this. Only push it, don't pull > back without sliding towards the margin. You should get fewer bubbles. Excellent! Thanks SP SignatureTake out the TRASH to reply > Which brand of composite do you use??? In this day and age, I think the brand of composite is no where near as important as the technique of placement. You can have wonderful results with any composites. Some are firmer, some slump more, some stick to the instrument more, but all work well. I personally like a macrofil with a microfil layered over it, but a hybrid works very well, too. Signature/ Amatus / > Question for the experts on this board. > Which brand of composite do you use??? [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > really am not thrilled with [its a hybrid that does not set as hard as I > like.[bonding agent is the parkell brush N bond which I LOVE]. > , some slump more, some stick to the > instrument more, but all work well. I personally like a macrofil with a > microfil layered over it Jeff Brucia would be proud of youse. SP SignatureTake out the TRASH to reply >Question for the experts on this board. >Which brand of composite do you use??? [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >am not thrilled with [its a hybrid that does not set as hard as I >like.[bonding agent is the parkell brush N bond which I LOVE]. Am currently using 3M Filtek Z250 and bonding with Clearfil SE -- W_B Take out the G'RBAGE wubbabubbazG@RBAGEyahoo.com Tetric Evo-Ceram & Flow-It. Fawks > Question for the experts on this board. > Which brand of composite do you use??? I use Kerr Prodigy mostly . For no occ. load anteriors I use Ker Point 4. For High Esthetic I ude Dentsply EsthetX The bonding agent I routinely use id Kerr Solo +. For self cure I us One Step by Bisco. I'll try to change the routine to Clearfil S3 Ud >I use Kerr Prodigy mostly . For no occ. load anteriors I use Kerr > Point 4. For High Esthetic I ude Dentsply EsthetX. > The bonding agent I routinely use id Kerr Solo +. For self cure I use > One Step by Bisco. I'll try to change the routine to Clearfil S3. And, ? Signature/ Amatus / >I use Kerr Prodigy mostly . For no occ. load anteriors I use Kerr > Point 4. For High Esthetic I ude Dentsply EsthetX. > The bonding agent I routinely use id Kerr Solo +. For self cure I use > One Step by Bisco. I'll try to change the routine to Clearfil S3. > Udi |
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