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Medical Forum / General / Dentistry / May 2005Cordless bonding lights?
I've been so out of it but are there cordless bonding lights where you don't have to lug this whole heavy thing into a room every time you want to do a light cure procedure? I was thinking the holder/charger could be in one room and just take the 'gun' part to the room where you need it for the procedure, especially where counter space is tight. I think I've heard of it and they might be much more costly. ares > I've been so out of it but are there cordless bonding lights where you don't > have to lug this whole heavy thing into a room every time you want to do a [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > it and they might be much more costly. > ares Hi ares, sure there are. Here in europe we have lots of offers. Gun like lights and also pen style. they are about 800 to 1200 EUROs. Jochen > > I've been so out of it but are there cordless bonding lights > > ares [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Jochen If you don't mind my asking: how many procedures or curings can you do before you have to set it aside and let it recharge?. Have you found that there really are materials that don't cure well with these lights? Danke SP  SignatureFinally: take out the TRASHH > If you don't mind my asking: how many procedures or curings can you do > before you have to set it aside and let it recharge?. Have you found > that there really are materials that don't cure well with these lights? > Danke You guys talking about LEDs right? My sales rep said while he was trying to sell me the SDI led, that the curing problem was common with the older LEDs but newer models can cure any contemporary material. I think they're brilliant but I could not bear the cost, not after getting a new apex locator. George I bought a pair of the "Cure" LED lights. They are plug in but they fit right into an extra handpiece holder on your dental unit, so they are ALWAYS there and ready to be used. This tiny light cures composite through 8 mm of porcelain in 30 seconds. >> If you don't mind my asking: how many procedures or curings can you > do [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > George > I bought a pair of the "Cure" LED lights. They are plug in but they fit > right into an extra handpiece holder on your dental unit, so they are ALWAYS > there and ready to be used. This tiny light cures composite through 8 mm of > porcelain in 30 seconds. Howdy, Dr S... I'm gonna be cementing an inlay MO porcelaine in a lower 2nd molar next week. If I only have a 501 (halogen) how long should I cook it? And while we're on the subject, do your CURE lights have any wavelength limitations? Thanks SP Thanks SP SignatureFinally: take out the TRASHH Halogen lights -- one minute of light on each side (total of three minutes) LED -- about half of above AFAIK these will cure any resin on the market. >> I bought a pair of the "Cure" LED lights. They are plug in but they fit >> right into an extra handpiece holder on your dental unit, so they are [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Thanks > SP > Halogen lights -- one minute of light on each side (total of three > minutes) > > LED -- about half of above > > AFAIK these will cure any resin on the market. OK: I'm gonna sand blast the inlay, etch and SingleBond the cavity, Silane the porcelaine, and cement it in usin Z-100. I will heat it using my coffee warmer (like I do gutta percha). I wanna know: Mirage makes a Silane in two bottles to be mixed in a third. It would seem that this stuff would last longer than a single bottle, especially for one who doesn't do too much yet. Do you have any thoughts on this? Thanks SP SignatureFinally: take out the TRASHH Sorry, but I never tried it. I use the 3M ESPE silane. >> Halogen lights -- one minute of light on each side (total of three >> minutes) [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Thanks > SP Hi, did anyone use the new RelyX Unicem for porcelain restaurations. Its self etching. You just need silane for the inlay and then fill the cavity with the cement. Thats it. I didn't have porcelain restauration for long now, just wanted to hear your experiences if there are any. Thanks, JK SignatureDr. Jochen Kulow |email: jochen.kulowNOSPAM Zahnarzt/Dentist | (at)dentalmail.de |remove NOSPAM |PGP: http://wwwkeys.de.pgp.net |HP: http://www.dr-kulow.de --------------------PGP-Fingerprint------------------- DAA3 468E 10FB 463D AE5C A135 6D6B 9250 7746 6FC7 ------------------------------------------------------ > Hi, > did anyone use the new RelyX Unicem for porcelain restaurations. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Thanks, > JK Have not used it for in/onlays, yet. This will be my first. I'm going to try using Z100 as cement/blockout material, after the fashion of DrSteve. Unicem _is_ rather good for posts and crowns, though. I _do_ etch and bond, even if they say you don't have to. The fact that it is thick and that it comes in an Amalgam like capsule that you shake up and load into the 'staple gun' is (to me) a big plus. Mind the dates on it, however, as the stuff doesn't last indefinitely on the shelf. Cheers SP SignatureFinally: take out the TRASHH > Sorry, but I never tried it. I use the 3M ESPE silane. 'K... I was thinking more about the shelf life of a one bottle system. As you may remember, I won't be doing 100 of these a week just yet... ;-) If I have to adjust the procelain on the underside of the inlay or on the occlusal side, what do you recommend to do that? The technicians say we shouldn't be using diamonds on the high-speed. It causes craze lines in the porcelaine. Also: what do you use as disclosing product for marking high spots? Thanks SP Thanks SP SignatureFinally: take out the TRASHH Adjust it with fine diamond in HS with water spray turned up high. Cutting it with burs will cause fractures. Use lots of water or you will damage it due to uneven heating. I use Acufilm for occlusion and Occlude spray for inner surfaces. If the proximal contacts are good, but it sits slightly proud of the hole, hit the inside with your lab-side sand blaster lightly, and try again. Be certain to etch the porcelain beyond the margins. SM >> Sorry, but I never tried it. I use the 3M ESPE silane. > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Thanks > SP > Adjust it with fine diamond in HS with water spray turned up high. Cutting > it with burs will cause fractures. Use lots of water or you will damage it [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > SM 'K........ I assume you're using HF to etch the Porcelain, and you use 3M ESPE's silane. Does your HF come from 3M ESPE as well? Thanks SP SignatureFinally: take out the TRASHH I usually just sand-blast. Studies do not show much improvement in strength from adding the HF acid. There is some increase in strength with adding HF, so do it if you are concerned. If you skip the sand-blasting, you MUST use HF. Signature~+--~+--~+--~+--~+-- Stephen [What's a Temporary?], D.D.S. Michigan, USA .................................................... This posting is intended for informational or conversational purposes only. Always seek the opinion of a licensed dental professional before acting on the advice or opinion expressed here. Only a dentist who has examined you in person can diagnose your problems and make decisions which will affect your health. ...................... > >> Adjust it with fine diamond in HS with water spray turned up high. [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > Thanks > SP > I usually just sand-blast. Studies do not show much improvement in strength > from adding the HF acid. There is some increase in strength with adding HF, > so do it if you are concerned. If you skip the sand-blasting, you MUST use > HF. Nope... I'll blast it with the ol' Danville MicroEtch II and that'll be that. I'm using this thing all over the place and it's fully autoclavable, so you can use it anywhere. One thing further: I would use an A1 as my Z100, although I don't think it makes much difference in the posteroir. Is there any problem with that? Thanks. SP SignatureFinally: take out the TRASHH Just watch your overhead light, as the lighter shades set up really fast. Signature~+--~+--~+--~+--~+-- Stephen [What's a Temporary?], D.D.S. Michigan, USA .................................................... This posting is intended for informational or conversational purposes only. Always seek the opinion of a licensed dental professional before acting on the advice or opinion expressed here. Only a dentist who has examined you in person can diagnose your problems and make decisions which will affect your health. ...................... > >> I usually just sand-blast. Studies do not show much improvement in [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > that? Thanks. > SP > Just watch your overhead light, as the lighter shades set up really fast. I've noticed that with _all_ 3M products. I always tilt the lamp away as soon as I slap on the SingleBond. I want it to soak in for 15 seconds so as to give a good hybrid layer. In fact, some of the newer unit lights have an orange filter built-in. You just flick a latch and it covers the lamp. My illuminator for my Orascoptic Loopes has this too. I stopped using it though, as I would forget I was attached and get up and walk away, and drag the thing onto the ground. It's been repaired about 10 times. Finally I just said 'enough', and put it away. One other question I forgot: After putting the silane (2 coats?) on the porcelain, do you cover that with a layer of SingleBond? Thanks SP SignatureFinally: take out the TRASHH >> Just watch your overhead light, as the lighter shades set up really fast. > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >After putting the silane (2 coats?) on the porcelain, do you cover that >with a layer of SingleBond? Yes .. Stephen Mancuso, D.D.S. Troy, Michigan, USA I am writing on a Tablet-PC,so forgive me if the PC misreads my handwriting. > >After putting the silane (2 coats?) on the porcelain, do you cover that > >with a layer of SingleBond? > > Yes Great. Thanks. I'll try and post a pic if anybody is interested. Cheers SP SignatureFinally: take out the TRASHH > >After putting the silane (2 coats?) on the porcelain, do you cover that > >with a layer of SingleBond? > > Yes When I phoned my local supplier for silane and Z100, he suggested I try the new PulpDent Enhance. This is a resin cement that supposedly doesn't require silane or even bonding. It is supposed to be good for everything except where the contraction of the cement would pose a problem: All ceramic crowns without zirconium thimbles as reinforcements and cementing posts in teeth with really thin walls. He suggested this because we were talking about butterfly bridges. I said I used 3M ESPE Rely-X Unicem to recement one that walked in almost falling off. It was an upper canine (!). I didn't ask _why_ that was tried, but told the lady that it was temporary only. Apparantly the thing to watch out for with this Enhance stuff (apart from the contraction issue) is the extremem drop in pH. I would think this caused a problem near the pulp, but he said that CRA still gave it good marks. I will stick to the microetch; bonding; silane; bonding; Z100, as I would like to have a really hard and strong fillin material for in/onlays, but the Enhance may be good for other stuff. Has anybody tried Enhance from PulpDent? Cheers SP SignatureFinally: take out the TRASHH Not I Signature~+--~+--~+--~+--~+-- Stephen [What's a Temporary?], D.D.S. Michigan, USA .................................................... This posting is intended for informational or conversational purposes only. Always seek the opinion of a licensed dental professional before acting on the advice or opinion expressed here. Only a dentist who has examined you in person can diagnose your problems and make decisions which will affect your health. ...................... > >> >After putting the silane (2 coats?) on the porcelain, do you cover that [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > Cheers > SP > Not I Butterfly bridges: what do you use and why? Thanks SP SignatureFinally: take out the TRASHH If you are talking about Maryland style bridges, I use Panavia. Signature~+--~+--~+--~+--~+-- Stephen [What's a Temporary?], D.D.S. Michigan, USA .................................................... This posting is intended for informational or conversational purposes only. Always seek the opinion of a licensed dental professional before acting on the advice or opinion expressed here. Only a dentist who has examined you in person can diagnose your problems and make decisions which will affect your health. ...................... > >> Not I > > Butterfly bridges: what do you use and why? > Thanks > SP > If you are talking about Maryland style bridges, I use Panavia. OK, thanks.... SP <quietly, in his bal ymehcla, the Pipe adds a proton to existing gold fillings in the mouths of some...> SignatureFinally: take out the TRASHH >> If you are talking about Maryland style bridges, I use Panavia. > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] ><quietly, in his bal ymehcla, the Pipe adds a proton to existing gold >fillings in the mouths of some...> Hey, I've got lots of extra protons, shall I ship them to ya ? -- W_B Take out the G'RBAGE wubbabubbazG@RBAGEyahoo.com > >> If you are talking about Maryland style bridges, I use Panavia. > > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Take out the G'RBAGE > wubbabubbazG@RBAGEyahoo.com I've still got your last doggy bag to get through.... not that they take up much space, o' course... SP SignatureFinally: take out the TRASHH Hey DR. Steve... please answer my post about understanding my Dentist.. see below.. Thanks.. Mrs Oscar Brand > Hey DR. Steve... please answer my post about understanding my Dentist.. > see below.. Thanks.. Mrs Oscar Brand > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ I just answered. Are you married to THE Oscar Brand? Steve SignatureMark & Steven Bornfeld DDS http://www.dentaltwins.com Brooklyn, NY 718-258-5001 > You guys talking about LEDs right? My sales rep said while he was > trying to sell me the SDI led, that the curing problem was common with [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > George Which one did you get? I have the Morita Root ZX, which is supposed to be the 'best' on the market. At least, so sayeth the Tulsa Dental People, who package it with their intro Profile equipment. Personally, I don't find I can let it go without a confirming photo with a file at the apex. Here , we are obliged to have that anyway. You will find that in some situations (like when there is a definite periapical opacity) it is bang-on. In other situations (long and thin canals with roots planted on the nerve or in the sinus), it over estimates the length of the canal. There you run the risk of digging into and perforating into things that shouldn't be perforated into.... If you get into a situation where you are digging and digging and the thing is still telling you that you are a couple of mm from the apex, but you are butting up against what feels like bone, stop and take a photo. In multi canal situations or where you have metal touching the irrigating fluid, use cotton pellets to dry the pulp chamber. You want irrigation fluid in the canal and not the pulp chamber. One other thing: Keep your batteries charged up. Don't wait till it tells you they are too low. You will get unexact readings if you don't. I have a tape on the back with the month the batteries went in, and I don't let the charge get down much under half of mamimal. Hope this helps a bit. SP SignatureFinally: take out the TRASHH http://www.cranews.com/additional_study/2004/04-04/Website%20Info.htm If I recall correctly, RootZX is a 3rd-generation EAL, so I thouht since I'm paying good money I'll go for 4th generation. I got a Sybron Endo elements and I'm very happy with it. You can buy it along with a painless vitality tester integrated (but I didn't) and it has this great "sattellite" thingy, which is a miniature display screen that clips on the patients's bib or on the chair and you can easily watch it without turning away from the patient. Saved me from straining my neck. As fas as accuracy goes, I only take one pre-op, one post-op xray unless the EAL fails to give a reading. In the majority of cases it hasn't failed me. As for batteries, I keep it on the charger all the time and let it get the power through the main supply. George > If I recall correctly, RootZX is a 3rd-generation EAL, so I thouht > since I'm paying good money I'll go for 4th generation. I got a Sybron [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > As for batteries, I keep it on the charger all the time and let it get > the power through the main supply. Excellent, George. If it is that good in all cases, I think your ahead of the game. I'll be curious to see if Tulsa Dental continues to pack the Root ZX with their kits or if they go to some 4th generation locator. Thanks SP SignatureFinally: take out the TRASHH
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